Cambodia & Tourism: Return to Kep, heading for the serenity of Knai Bang Chatt
- Kep West
- Apr 25
- 7 min read
I had been wanting to return to Kep, in Cambodia, for a while, and specifically to the KNAI Bang Chatt, a very special hotel that I loved during my first stay there a few years ago.
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So, I hadn't returned to admire the major transformations that the hotel complex had undergone, which I had heard about in the press. So, it was with my husband and my eight-year-old son that I decided to take a few days' holiday. I am almost forty years old; I work in a hospital with a demanding job, and, in addition to the good memories I had of this place, I was therefore hoping for a restful and invigorating holiday, which would also allow me to discover the region and its surroundings in more depth.
It will take us just over three hours to reach our destination. As we approach Kep, I am already enjoying the chance to spend a few days in peace and quiet, far from the city, the traffic and the noise. At first glance, Kep doesn't seem to have changed much. Arriving at the Knai Bang Chatt, a few hundred metres from the crab market, we still see the elegant stone wall and the sliding wooden door. The hotel staff, as smiling and attentive as I remember, are waiting for us and kindly take our luggage before showing us to reception and offering us a refreshment.
We quickly explain what we want, and the manager tells us that he fully intends to offer us a programme that is relaxing, varied and full of discoveries. Great! After a few hours' drive, I can't wait to get back to the pool to swim and cool off.
From the moment I take my first steps towards the rooms, I am overwhelmed by a feeling of tranquillity and elegance that I have rarely found elsewhere. I rediscover the blend of historic charm and modern luxury for which the Knai Bang Chatt is renowned.
The hotel complex still has its three beautifully restored 1970s villas, which somewhat embody the French colonial style. These structures have been meticulously renovated to preserve their historical essence while offering modern comfort. I find that the result is a beautiful and harmonious fusion of past and present, creating an atmosphere that is both discreet and sophisticated, with just a hint of nostalgia.
Our room is a cosy oasis, decorated with vintage touches and natural colours that seem to whisper stories of a not-so-distant golden age. I tell myself that the absence of modern distractions such as television will encourage me to disconnect completely, while the Wi-Fi will allow me to share photos of my stay with my friends.
I can hardly contain my son's energy as he impatiently paces waiting to go to the pool. On the way there, equipped with towel, sunglasses, hat and sunscreen, I realise that the place is as green as ever with its tall palm trees, small ponds and a splendid lawn with a rather imposing poinciana tree.
A gentle sea breeze carries the sweet scent of the splendid surrounding gardens, and I already feel incredibly good. Here and there, a few decorations, stumps and pottery brought in by the currents remind us that we are by the sea, on one of the shores of the famous Gulf of Thailand, whose very name evokes the spirit of the great adventures of yesteryear.
I stop halfway to see that the complex has indeed expanded. There is now a vast expanse of white sand at the end of which are several buildings, a few restaurants and a water sports centre. I love jet skiing and kayaking and would also like to try out the Hobie Cat. As for the restaurants, I fully intend to try them one by one. We are by the sea and the chef will probably offer a few seafood and fish specialities on the menu.
This splendid swimming pool and its deck furnished with parasols and very comfortable sofas only add to this feeling of calm and serenity. I may be repeating myself, but strangely enough, I don't know many other places that are so relaxing. I almost blame myself for not having come here sooner.
After an hour of swimming in deliciously cool water, I take my son and husband to the seaside to discover these new facilities. After a few selfies – the place is too beautiful to escape this habit – we head towards the nautical centre and meet the friendly Roberto, who oversees the centre and the excursions. He suggests a plethora of activities for the coming days, and they really tempt us.
A little further on, we discover the little oasis of Coco Beach, a white sandy beach next to the pier and the restaurants. I promise myself that I will have a cocktail there this evening while watching the sunset. We also could marvel at this incredible sculpture - Coral Kingdom - an exceptional work that adds to the unique and creative character of the place. We borrow bicycles because I want to go back to The Strand restaurant, the one where we ate on our first visit, and I remember the particularly tasty food.
Having arrived at this restaurant with its very South Seas architecture that reminds me of a trip to Polynesia, Chef Chuon Sokheng himself comes to welcome us and to recommend dishes from his new menu, of which he seems rather proud. The Strand offers Khmer specialities as well as Western dishes. This is also where breakfast is served.
The chef suggests his burrata with black olive tapenade, baked tomatoes, aubergine caviar and coriander pesto. He praises his recipe with such energy that we can't help but give in. Without any regrets, it is a real delight with flavours that blend harmoniously and, above all, 100% fresh and therefore very pleasant products. I wanted a ‘healthy stay’, and I'm delighted that it's getting off to such a good start.
We also order a few local specialities, including the famous lok lak with wonderful Kampot pepper and a grilled fish also accompanied by the famous Kampot green pepper, with a truly exquisite sauce. But the meal's wonderful culinary surprise is undoubtedly the crab tartare with avocado.
Incredibly tender crab meat, bursting with freshness and combining perfectly with the smooth avocado. An authentic delight, a masterpiece, Chef Chuon Sokheng is an artist who knows how to showcase seafood.
After such a delicious meal, and feeling suitably full, we decide to have a short, peaceful nap before heading to the beach. My son and my husband insist on jet skiing, preferring to postpone the Hobie-Cat experience until tomorrow. So let them have fun... Roberto gives us the life jackets, reminds us of a few basic rules of caution and safety, and here we are happily riding the waves under a beautiful sun that has decided not to leave us today.
After an hour's stroll, we opt for a slightly quieter activity. For my part, it will be a bit of lazing on the beach, while my son and my husband then try out the joys of paddleboarding and kayaking. I will join them shortly because it is a real pleasure to sail peacefully as the light gradually fades and heralds a superb sunset.
At around 5.30pm, feeling sun-kissed and exhilarated, we head back to the pool and shower to get ready for the sunset cocktail. We make ourselves comfortable on the sun loungers at Coco Beach with a cold beer, which we enjoy peacefully while admiring the magnificent sunset spreading out in front of our amazed eyes. A feeling of tranquillity, fulfilment, perhaps almost perfect happiness.
Then, at around 7pm, it was time for a second gastronomic experience, this time with dinner at The Wave. Of course, I couldn't resist taking a few selfies in front of the pier and the amazing Coral Kingdom sculpture. After such a busy day, we felt rather hungry, and the lunch experience made us even more eager to taste the creations of Chef Chuon Sokheng.
The menu, available in paper and digital form, is quite extensive and offers many fish and seafood dishes. The waiter recommends the pizzas, which are prepared on the premises and are quite popular with The Wave's clientele.
It's difficult to choose as the dishes are so tempting, so we're going to follow the staff's recommendations and opt for a pizza, but the fresh sea air nearby makes me want fish and the memory of the tartare from lunch reminds me of the chef's talent for fresh starters, so I choose a carpaccio.
The same observation applies: the chef and his team once again provide a fine illustration of their talents. The carpaccio, with its thin slices of cheese and capers, is sublime. The pizza is equally delightful, with a crispy base and a very skilful assortment of seafood and vegetables. We savour it patiently like a delicacy, as it has become so rare to be able to eat good pizzas that are fresh, well-balanced, ‘come in Italia’... a treat, and I am not surprised by the number of tables that have ordered it.
Also worth mentioning is the fast service, the cosy lounge atmosphere with a professional DJ. We even had the opportunity to chat with some of the other guests at the tables, the atmosphere was so friendly and conducive to pleasant encounters. It is worth emphasising that our overly connected world sometimes forgets the pleasure of a simple chat over a drink in a place that is, it must be said, perfectly suited to this. Looking forward to tomorrow for new sporting and gastronomic pleasures.
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